Ron and Cindy's Odyssea

We needed two days to motor sail up to Stuart, Florida, our intended destination and Fantasea’s home port.  We elected to sail north from Ft Lauderdale to Lake Worth (Palm Beach) on the ocean thinking that we may be helped with the northward traveling Gulf Stream.  We were likely not far enough out to take advantage of that 2-3 knot push.  When the wind was contrary to our direction of travel, we lowered the mainsail but not before noting that the 6 inch tear on the foot of the sail had become a 6 foot gash.  Another repair that we would need to make before Fantasea would be accepted for sale. 

The final day we took the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) north to Stuart.  Navigating the Port St Lucie inlet can be hazardous with shoals extending out into the cruising channel.  More bothersome than that was the innumerable power boats zipping at 25 knot speeds annoyingly close to our sloop making 6 knots.  The wake that these inconsiderate vessels create would keep us rocking for the next hour as we cut through their wake on the diagonal to mitigate the swells as well as the damage to our household contents inside the cabins.

We hailed the Harborage Marina where we had made reservations for a slip and were guided into the refuge.  Backing into the slip so that our power cord would reach the electrical terminal on the dock can be a challenge.  When motoring forward one must bring the vessel to a complete stop before backing up.  The period of time once the boat has come to a stop and then begins to make steerage way in reverse can be interminable though it may only be 15 seconds.  It can be an anxious few moments simply because the maneuverability of the boat is drastically reduced, especially nerve racking when in close proximity to other, very expensive, vessels in the anchorage.  But, with the practice of many such maneuvers over the past 12 months, we guided Fantasea to her final berth. 

The next week was spent getting Fantasea ready for her listing for sale.  It was amazing how much gear we had accumulated over the past year.  Much of it was left aboard yet we did ship back to our California home 5 boxes of household goods including the inflatable stand up paddle board that we had purchased 6 months ago at the Newport, Rhode Island boat show. 

We met with Bruce our yacht broker to review the specifications that would be placed in the marketing materials along with numerous photos.  In fact, Bruce was the broker who showed us Fantasea back in November 2018 when we undertook to purchase a boat for our East Coast sailing adventure.  Interestingly, while we saw many boats over the course of two months the year before, Fantasea was the very first boat we saw in the Dinner Key Marina in Miami.  We hired Suzanne and her crew to detail the boat and it took them an entire day to make Fantasea sparkle.  Now the bride was ready to present herself to possible suitors.

And then, all at once, as Frank Sinatra would sing, it was time to bid farewell to our seaborne home for the past 12 months.  As our eyes became misty, we laid a hand on Fantasea and thanked God that he had cared for us during our sojourn and brought us through so many tumultuous and yet gratifying episodes and prayed that the new owner would experience much joy and safe passage with this new vessel.

From Stuart we drove to Titusville, FL where we met up with Rick and Sue, recent transplants from our neighborhood, to see their new acquisition, a lovely Jenneau Sun Odyssey Deck Salon aptly named No Agenda.  Traveling back to St Augustine to stay overnight in their land home, we boarded a plane the next day bound for Atlanta where we would spend a few days with daughter Jessica’s family.  Then we flew back home to California, each of us with two checked large rolling duffles and a large on board suitcase, and arrived home on March 7. 

Two days later, our broker called and informed us that a very attractive offer had been received for Fantasea!  There was some negotiation but, after considering how long it may take to sell her and the carrying costs each month in the marina, we accepted the offer.  The haulout and sea trial were quickly arranged and Fantasea was accepted with no adjustment in price and a minor repair.  We then awaited the arrival of funds and documents in good order and, on March 27, 3 weeks after first being listed, Fantasea had a new owner.

Now some called it fate, others luck, but we are convinced that God had blessed us with perfect timing on the sale of our boat.  With the coronavirus shutting down so much of the economy since mid-March one can imagine the lack of interest in buying a luxury yacht. Looking back, we realized the benefit of those exhausting sunrise to sunset days of cruising was to position Fantasea for the most opportune moment for her sale. We thank God for his provision for our safety throughout our 3,606 nautical miles over the past 370 days.

After our Christmas furlough in California, we returned to St Augustine where we prepared to journey south to Ft Lauderdale.  A new battery charger and fresh water pump were vital additions to Fantasea’s inventory, investments that were to prove essential to the crew’s comfort.  On January 15^th we embarked on the Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) to Daytona Beach, New Smyrna Beach, Ft Pierce, and Stuart, Florida.  We passed gorgeous homes on the ICW and long stretches of wilderness as we motored south.

We purchased the Bahamas cruising guide and Explorer charts in Stuart to study for the upcoming Bahamas crossing.  Moving on from Stuart we cruised down to Palm Beach and finally Ft Lauderdale, where after an exhilerating romp down the Florida coast, we anchored in cozy Lake Sylvia after refueling and waiting for the 17^th Street Bascule Bridge to open. 

Here we prepared to cross the Gulf Stream to Bimini, Gateway to the Bahamas.  No more ICW, this was serious cruising as we motor sailed for 9 hours to reach this tiny island.  Then, two days later, as we surveyed the “weather window”, our boat buddies, Doug and Suzy aboard their Manta 42 catamaran, Carina, encouraged us to do our first overnighter.  The next 28 hours would be a real test of endurance as we crossed the shallow but wide Grand Bahama Bank to reach Nassau at 2 AM and pressed on for another 8 hours to Allan Cay (pronounced key), the entrance to the Exuma Islands.  We were so thankful for their knowledge of the Exumas as they led the way across this totally unfamiliar region. 

This part of the journey reminded me of the covered wagon caravans that led settlers across the Great Plains to the West Coast in the 19^th century.  Go west, young man, said Horace Greeley.  And they did.  The wise ones engaged the services of the navigator who had successfully crossed the plains and the Rocky Mountains.  So did we.

By 10 AM the next morning, we had crossed the Exuma Bank and were now in the beautiful Exuma Islands! Part of the Bahamas nation, the Exumas exemplify those white sandy beaches that adorn picture post cards. Miles of secluded beaches at crystal clear torquoise water were irresistable.

Staniel Cay was a favorite. We watched the Super Bowl there. There were strong winds from the North so we remained at anchor until the weather window opened for our sail down to Georgetown, Exumas.

We reached Georgetown, Exumas in the mid afternoon and found a fine place to anchor. There were more than 275 boats in the marinas and anchorages in this area. Georgetown was the destination of many cruisers. Each morning at 8 AM, there was a cruisers net on channel 72 of the VHF radio. Listening in, we would learn about events for the day and upcoming week, find out what cruisers had just arrived and which were departing the area. Every day there were parties and impromptu gatherings at the various beaches or in town.

As February drew to a close, our idyllic time in the Exumas was at an end. We resolved to motor/sail back to Ft Lauderdale in 5 days from Georgetown. We left the anchorage at dawn and out into the Exuma Sound bound for Staniel Cay

We get up before dawn.   It’s still dark.  Making preparations for today’s voyage.  We don our personal flotation ddevices and have the tether line ready in case I need to go forward to the bow or the mast when it is rocky .  Hatches closed.  Nav and steaming lights on.  And they will be for two more hours.  We leave the anchorage at Sand Dollar Beach at Georgetown, Exumas and start making our way up the Exuma chain for several hundred miles. 

We made Staniel Cay in good time, refueled and anchored off Big Majors where the pigs like to swim. We rested for the next day’s trip and set off in the morning to Allen Cay. We anchored in Allen Cay’s small anchorage by late afternoon.

Then we sail across the Yellow bank to Nassau’s east entrance.  Through the harbor where 5 enormous cruise ships are berthed.  We are microscopic in size compared to these behemoths.  But they don’t look as sleek as our 46’ Beneteau appropriately named Fantasea.  Exiting the west entrance to the harbor enormous waves hit us just off the starboard quarter.  The forecast did not prepare us for this.  About an our later, the seas settled down to 4-5 feet and we could breathe a sigh of relief.

On to Chubb Cay where we anchored in 8’ feet of water but the swells were hitting us broadside making a very uncomfortable anchorage.  So, as its getting dark, we pull up anchor and cross over to another spot about 300 yards away and after several tries, found a spot, dropped the hook and and fashioned a bridle to reduce drag on the chain.  So tired, we cooked a dinner in the microwave and fell asleep.  We had traveled about 72 miles that day. And the next day would likely be even further.

The next morning while still dark, we weighed anchor at 0545 and made our way carefully to the open water and headed for the Northwest Channel’s western entrance. From there we entered the wide but shallow Grand Bahama Bank for 58 miles.  Sunny day.    We were headed for the Gun Cay Cut but were not certain we would anchor on the east or west side. As it was getting dark, we opted for the west side. Bad choice. It was rolly as ever but Cindy said she was “over it” and took a Bonine to quell her sea sickness.

Back in the USA!

The one good thing about anchoring on the west side of Cat Cay was that were closer to our destination-Fort Lauderdale. The Gulf Stream added 2 knots to our speed as we crossed her to reach Fort Lauderdale in the USA. Back again through the 17th Street Bascule bridge and this time we grabbed a slip at the Las Olas Marina. We had a joyous celebration as we completed the trip from the Exumas to Florida in the 5 days we had hoped to accomplish. There is something exciting and reassuring as we entered the port and realized that we were now back in America.

Unlike the Bahamas and other Caribbean nations, our clearing in at Customs and Immigration was accomplished online! Back in Bimini, the immigration authorities still used carbon paper on official documents.

Winding our way up the Cumberland River and across St Catherine’s Sound, we anchored in the Amelia River at Fernandina Beach just across the Georgia -Florida border.  It had been a chilly cruise that day though not much rain.  We could not wait to cross into the Sunshine State as Florida is known.  Once in Florida, that much sought after sunshine and attendant warmth was finally our companion.  Or so we thought.  After all, this is winter.

We timed our arrival just right to enjoy the Christmas holiday festival on the island.  Both the locals and the visitors were in high spirits eating, drinking, shopping and reveling.  We were thrilled to be in the company of festively attired merchants and entertained by musical performances.

St Augustine

We continued our motoring down the ICW south on the St John’s River past Jacksonville and its beach areas until we anchored along the river just north of one of those 65’ fixed bridges that are prevalent in this area.  Fortunately, it was relatively calm and we enjoyed a comfortable rest that evening as we anticipated our arrival the next day in St Augustine, Florida on December 16^th.  The ICW along this route was lined on the west side with dense forest and on the east side with numerous stately homes. 

We usually haul our inflatable, motorized dinghy on the davits mounted on the back of our boat.  Since we had expected to use the dinghy while in St Augustine to get from our mooring to the marina dock, I towed it.  However, I underestimated the force of the current in the St Augustine inlet and our dinghy got caught on a channel marker.  The dinghy started drifting away as I came about to retrieve it.  This proved to be more difficult as the high waves coming in from the ocean prevented a quick retrieval.  The inflatable was drifting out to sea with the current when a small but powerful motorboat came to our aid and brought the errant dinghy back to us.  Reminded of the constant need to survey ahead and astern we pressed on to the mooring field at the city marina. 

This proved to be another test because as the next several days passed, the North swells continued to grow and make our mooring position very uncomfortable.  Our dinner party on Thursday evening was a huge success as we were able to rendezvous with Doug and Suzy as well as Rick and Sue, the latter couple just recently arrived from their Orange County, California home.  But ferrying the guests from Fantasea to the dock proved to be a wet ride, not to speak of the agility required to transfer from the inflatable to our boat without injury. 

By Friday morning, I had had enough of this nasty weather and motored into a very comfortable slip in the marina.  Doug was a wizard at installing a new battery charger and directing my work at replacing the fresh water pump which had been making a protesting din, signaling its useful life was at an end. 

Christmas in California

We boarded a flight back to California to celebrate Christmas with son Blake, his wife Kelly, and grandson Liam as well as our son, Tony.  Thinking we were going home to Southern California sunshine, we had been invited to join the kids in Running Springs, which at 6,000 feet, was to experience record snowfall over the next two days.  We were snowed in for two days.  The rest of our time in California we visited friends and were warmly greeted at our Dana West Yacht Club for the annual New Year’s Eve soiree. 

Return to Florida

January of the new year 2020 When it was time to return to Florida to continue our southward sojourn, we were hosted at the Lakeland, FL home of Brian and Barb who had sailed with us in the Abaco Islands three years earlier.  Our stay was brief but thoroughly enjoyable and we returned to St Augustine.  Before we resumed our southbound cruise we toured the St Augustine Distillery and were treated to a highly informative and entertaining tour of the facility and its history.  Its award winning bourbon placed first among 115 entries at a recent world competition and was remarkably smooth but we elected not to invest the $200 for a liter of that elixir.

Back out on the Atlantic Ocean for a cruise past Savannah, Georgia and up the Skidaway River to the Isle of Hope Marina.  We met Gregg and Mary, residents of Dutch Island, for dinner to renew our friendship that was initiated back in April 2019 when we stopped for a few days to provision and play pickleball.  We had hoped to stay an extra day at the marina but, since there was no room, we elected to continue south on the ICW and anchor in Big Tom Creek, another of those remote but very peaceful spots.  Next day found us winding our way on the ICW rivers and we chose to anchor in Duplin Creek near the inlet to the ocean.  We caught a favorable window to cruise outside down to St Simons Island on a sunny day.  As we sailed into the wide St Simons Channel inlet to the island, we saw a most remarkable and sad sight of a huge ship on its side!  We learned that the ship had run aground at 1:30 AM back in September while carrying 4200 cars.  The pictures do not provide the massive size of this ocean going vessel on its side. The salvage operation was so intricate it would take 2 years to break up the ship in pieces and haul it away as it could not be safely refloated.  Thank God that all crew was rescued from the ship with a fast and efficient response from local marine authorities.

Jekyll Island

When we were traveling north on our year long journey, we avoided the waterways along Jeklyll Island, Georgia due to reports of extensive shoaling.  This time, with weather dictating our route selection, we cruised along Jekyll Creek to a marina where we docked for several days.  We were completely unprepared for the incredible beauty and historic significance of this island. 

We cruised down the Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW) south to warmer weather.  After having a quiet dinner at the very unique Tavern at Jack’s Neck in Belhaven, NC https://www.tavernatjacks.com/photos, we pressed on into the mighty Neuse River and found a quiet anchorage in Big Creek off the South River.  From there we sailed south to Beaufort, NC where we provisioned Fantasea for her next leg.  Leaving before dawn, we carefully made our way out into the Atlantic Ocean for the long cruise to the Masonboro Inlet, when we arrived just as night was settling in.  We found the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach, NC where we had met other cruising friends, Rich and Kathie from Kansas. 

The weather was about to turn nasty so we cruised down to Carolina Beach and tied up at the Federal Point Yacht Club marina where we weathered the next Nor’easter.  When the next day dawned, there were parts of the floating docks that had separated and a small tug was attempting to tow it away when the steering mechanism failed and the tug grazed the starboard side of our boat and scraped the galvanized finish off our anchor.  The marina staff offered to pay for the detailing that would be needed to restore Fantasea’s hull to its bristol condition.  By all means we responded especially since we did not have to pay for another day’s dockage and, lo, the detailing team felt that it would be cheeky not to polish the starboard side alone so the port side was done as well.  Now, Fantasea virtually glides through the water with her polished hull glistening. 

On to Southport where Captain Billy met us to help out with our plumbing system concerns.  We had dinner at a cozy waterfront bistro with Billy and his wife, Donna.  We left early the next day with a favorable current and spent the day cruising the ICW to a cool little anchorage a few miles south of Georgetown, NC just off Winyah Bay.  Sometimes these anchorages are so isolated that, if your mind is left to wander, no one would know if you had been kidnapped or worse. 

Back out to the Atlantic Ocean to sail south to Little River Inlet which is just north of Myrtle Beach, SC.  It was another long day of cruising which featured a 3 mile stretch of narrow channel known as “the Rock Pile”.  We passed this daunting stretch and made our way down the ICW to Charleston, SC, a city that exudes a unique blend of historic charm and richness. 

This was the port from which we departed for a 4 hour drive to Atlanta to spend Thanksgiving with daughter, Jessica, son in law Phil, and Finn 5 ½ and Wyatt 2, our two adorable and remarkably talented grandsons. 

Our friends, Mark and Shirley, prodigious producers of progeny (like 10 children!) elected to join us to cruise from Charleston to points south.  So off we went out into the Atlantic Ocean again, eschewing the ICW for the untamed waters of the great ocean.  What concerned me was that our cruising guide listed inlets from the ocean to the ICW and contained enough warnings to scare even the most dauntless skipper.  And the one we were heading to along the South Edisto River was even listed!  A call to the local Towboat US captain and the marina where we would eventually dock that night convinced us to plunge ahead and take the inlet.  I’m so glad we did even though there were moments when I struggled to remain calm though my heart was racing.  For example, you see on your GPS that if you continue on the current course, you will run aground but the local and reliable guidance and the channel markers tell you otherwise.  Well, we made it to the marina without incident or insurance claim, tied up at the dock, and went for a walk to capture a beautiful sunset at Edisto Beach, South Carolina. 

Dawn at Edisto Beach was quite foggy and I was not sure it would be safe to proceed.  Indeed, as we left the dock and slowly made our way into the South Edisto River, we strained to see the channel markers that would guide us.  What a relief when we finally spotted the markers and turned up the river where, after 30 minutes, the fog left and we were more confidently on our way south.  Our goal was the Skull Creek Marina on Hilton Head Island, SC via the ICW that would eventually take us past Beaufort, SC and across Port Royal Sound to Skull Creek.  The wind and rain persuaded us to take refuge at the marina and we spent a bit of a rocky night at the fuel dock.  Our intrepid friends, Mark and Shirley, vintners of some repute and so kind to bring us a number of bottles from their personal brand, departed for home in the morning. 

Cindy and I motored down the west side of Hilton Head Island in high winds for an hour before turning into Broad Creek and its calm waters.  Our destination was Shelter Cove Marina on Hilton Head Island where we would rendezvous with Randy and Sherry whose yacht Lexus Cat Too was berthed.  As always when one is unfamiliar to the approach to the marina, I thought we might need some lubricant to squeeze past the encroaching docks on either side.  And then, once we were inside the marina, how am I to maneuver this 46’ single engine vessel with no bow thrusters into a slip without damaging Fantasea or other boats?  I must credit Cindy and the dock crew with highly developed skill to bring us to rest in the slip without incident.

The change in the water was nothing short of remarkable.  Just a few hours before, we were shivering on the Calibogue Sound and now we were nestled in a secure anchorage with calm waters.  We would spend the next 2 days in Shelter Cove Marina to visit with Randy and Sherry aboard their beautifully decorated yacht.  Here is a link to this beautiful harbor: https://www.sheltercovehiltonhead.com/marina-web-cams

We extended our stay at Shelter Cove to rendezvous with HHI residents, Van and Lauren of the S/V Gratitude who we had met in Sunbury Creek, Georgia six months ago.  We were the most grateful beneficiaries of their hospitality as they took us to their home so we could thaw out, tour the Island, attend the performance of Kiss Me Kate, andenjoy their savory home cooked meals.  We had planned to leave earlier but Cindy was down with a bad cold so the extra days of rest were welcomed.

Apologies to Bob Dylan. If your old enough to know Dylan, then you’ll recognize his “Stuck Inside of Mobile with the Memphis Blues Again”. In our case, we were longing for the warm South.  Following our return from the Atlanta trip, we found ourselves in rainy and cold weather in Long Island’s Port Washington.  We hastily made our way back through the East River down to Atlantic Highlands where we hunkered down on a mooring for seven days.  Gale force winds along the Jersey coast threatened our calm anchorage and delayed our southward journey and, while we were protected by the breakwater at the marina, we lamented that such a long delay would find us shivering in the cold Northeast.  We took advantage of the weather stall to attend the Living Word Christian Church in Atlantic Highlands with Reverend Bill Bendick and wife, Louise, and were warmly welcomed by their congregation.

We finally had a break in the weather and we dashed down the Jersey coast in the Atlantic and then north into the Delaware Bay where, for 5 straight days, we cruised for 8-11 hours per day.  Our goal was Annapolis on the Chesapeake Bay but first we must transit the C&D Canal.  You can imagine our delight when we found a superbly protected anchorage in Worton Creek, MD and actually sat on the bow of our boat and whispered to each other because it was so quiet. 

That did not last long as the very next day, we set out on day 5 to reach the Maryland state capitol.  Wind was favorable so we hoisted the main sail, deployed the headsail, and turned off the iron sail (engine) for a 3 hour romp down the Chesapeake in a driving rainstorm that soaked us and served to remind us that we were unprepared for the weather of the mid-Atlantic states.

California Dreamin’

From Annapolis we uberred to Baltimore and boarded a flight back to the OC (California).  But not before we met up with Scott and Jennifer at a posh bistro in Annapolis for a lovely reunion with our friends whom we had met in St Martin, French West Indies years ago. Back in Southern California, it was so marvelous to visit with son Blake and daughter-in-love, Kelly, and the remarkably cute grandson, Liam, 7 months. 

Randy and Margie put us up in their lovely home in Dana Point and so extended to us such hospitality that we reluctantly returned to the East Coast.  The purpose of the west coast visit was to reconnect with friends and visit with clients as we had committed to do every 60 days or so.  The 10 days passed by so quickly and we were nearly exhausted from the nightly soirees we had with dear friends and family.

Back in Annapolis, work continued on Fantasea to replace several expensive electronic devices without which we would be in grave danger of getting lost or running aground.  And, of course, we needed to extend our visit for a day or so before resuming our southward sojourn.  With that we met up with Mario and Lori whom we had met four and a half months ago at Gilligan’s on Pope’s Creek on the Potomac River where Mario’s band was performing. After a lovely evening with them, we cruised down to Solomons Island, then to Reedville, and on to Yorktown, covering three days of 50 plus miles but we were keen to seek the solace of a warmer climate.  Yorktown was especially memorable because of the Victory Monument to the successful siege and ultimate surrender of Britain’s Lord Cornwallis’ troops to General George Washington in October 1781 that marked a significant milestone in the American Independence success. 

Our last day on the Chesapeake saw us motor sailing south down the bay to reach Norfolk, VA, home of a vast military and industrial complex including the largest naval base in the world at Norfolk.  The sheer number of naval vessels including three aircraft carriers and commercial freighters and tankers was overwhelming.

The 4^th day of sub 50 degree temps has served to remind us how thin our blood has become from decades of Southern California living.  Finally we were back on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) on the 700 mile trip down the East Coast from Norfolk to Florida.  First stop was Coinjock, NC and we put in at the marina to seek refuge from the gale force winds from the north.  One may be tempted to think that this is some backwater stop but judging from the number of huge motor yachts, it has become a favorite for the cruising crowd.  After another high wind directed delay we struck out down the ICW and cruised south along the Alligator River through an old swing bridge and then the Pungo River Canal. The fall splendor was in full bloom as we cruised along this narrow waterway and we found a peaceful anchorage about 55 miles south of Coinjock at a place called Deep Point.

We pressed on the next morning to Belhaven, NC where we took refuge at the Dowry Creek Marina, one that we had visited months before. The staff at Dowry Creek greeted us warmly amd extended all the hospitality you would expect from one’s neighbors in the South.

There is always the temptation to remain in the calm of the sequestered anchorage particularly when welcomed so warmly by local yachtsmen.  But the sea beckons and we set out on a southward course from Boston, influenced by a forecasted northeast weather front that was due to arrive in several days.  Our goal was to sail south back through the Cape Cod Canal to Onset Bay where shelter was available on a secure mooring.  Once there we motored over the marina dock where we engaged the services of an experienced mechanic who worked with us to go over our 50 horsepower Yanmar diesel engine.  Things were progressing smoothly when the mechanic turned the torque wrench too hard and I heard a loud snap.  It turned out to be a support piece for the rocker arm as best as I can describe it.  A replacement part was ordered but would take 3 days to arrive.  As we could not fire up the engine, we were obliged to remain in the marina tied up to a very secure dock.  This turned out to be fortuitous because that evening and for the next 2 days, the wind howled and the rain beat down but we were safe and dry.

Martha’s Vineyard

Once the ubiquitous part was delivered and installed, we left Onset Bay Marina and headed south on Buzzard’s Bay through Woods Hole and on to Martha’s Vineyard where we anchored that evening outside the breakwater.  The next morning we sought shelter inside the breakwater and were offered to tie up to a dock which we gladly accepted.  This afforded us the time to tour the towns of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown.  We also hopped on a tour van to trek all over the island and learned much about this unique island destination which claimed the title of the very best seafood chowder. 

Bidding farewell to Martha’s Vineyard we sailed southwest through Vineyard Sound with main and head sails aloft.  The pleasant day soon gave way to rain so we donned our foul weather gear and continued on to Newport, Rhode Island, host of the annual boat show. 

The rain eventually subsided and the wind enabled us to sail swiftly across Buzzards Bay and into the channel that we thought would afford secure anchorage. 

We were secure but with the strong wind from the North, we had a couple of rocky nights.  By the way, the boat show was well worth the price of admission.  Cindy had to remind me to simply enjoy touring these brand new sailboats costing in the high six figures rather than feeling envious.  We completed the day dining at the Newport Yacht Club where the Commodore displayed our yacht club’s burgee that a Southern California seafarer had brought with them years before.  

Happy to leave Newport we sailed on to the south fork of Long Island Sound where we anchored in Three Mile Harbor for a couple of days.  We uberred to the nearby town of East Hampton where we spent a few delightful hours on the beach in the warm sun of late summer.  East Hampton is quite a lovely town and a frightfully expensive place to live!

We left the next day bound for Port Jefferson, NY on the south shore of Long Island Sound, another of those deep bays extending for several miles in from the Sound.  Then on to Port Washington, NY, a familiar anchorage where we readied Fantasea to welcome Dave and Deborah from Las Vegas who arrived the next evening.  For the next 7 days, we toured New York City including the World Trade Center Memorial pools, Federal Hall and the financial district, and the Freedom Tower.  We beachcombed at Sandy Hook and cruised the Hudson River and Upper New York Bay.  No matter how often one visits New York City, the vision of the skyscrapers from the sea is breathtaking. 

Dave and Deborah departed and we sailed back up the East River, through the Roosevelt Island Lift Bridget (we contacted the bridge tender and he agreed to lift the bridge so we could pass through), and back to Port Washington.  Fantasea was secured to a mooring and we flew down to Atlanta to visit daughter Jessica and hubby Phil and our amazing grandsons, Finn, 5, who taught us the words to Who let the Dogs Out-Arf Arf! and Wyatt, 2, who copies his big bubba on everything. 

So tempted to linger in New York, we nonetheless pressed on through the East River and Hell Gate, past Riker’s Island, and La Guardia Airport, and entered Long Island Sound, a veritable sailor’s paradise.  So many harbors to visit and so many of them historic places dating back to the 1600’s.  We entered Manhasset Bay just west of the Throg’s Neck Bridge and moored overnight in Port Washington, NY.

We then sailed along the northern shore of Long Island Sound to New Haven, CT.  From there we sailed east to Fisher’s Island and anchored on its north coast.  The next day we carefully made our way east in a fog and sailed for Block Island and entered the harbor in the early afternoon.  We met up with our friends, Rich and Kathy, who had arrived there from northern ports the day before.  We spent a day visiting with them, took the launch into the marina, walked into the town and dined at a good restaurant.  Back to the boat at 9:30 PM where we expected to tolerate a rocky anchorage because of the high winds.  At midnight, night I was awakened by rain and a howling wind.  I climbed into the cockpit and started the engine in case the anchor was dragging in the 25 knot winds.  For about an hour there were anxious moments as I checked and rechecked our position.  Eventually the frothing seas subsided for which I thanked God for his grace in sparing us.  Our strong ground tackle properly deployed was worth the investment. 

We pressed on the next day and took refuge in a very peaceful anchorage at Hadley Harbor on Naushon Island off Buzzard’s Bay, Massachusetts. 

Off again the next day to the 17 mile Cape Cod Canal and then into Cape Cod Bay on a blustery afternoon bound for Plymouth, MA.  We toured the town and the famed “Rock” but were most impressed with the National Monument to our Forefathers.  Ironically, this memorial to liberty, 81 feet tall, located in a residential neighborhood is off the usual tourist path.  But more than worth it as we were treated to a video clip of the story behind the monument and what it represents. 

Despite an unfavorable forecast, we chose to press on the next day.  Our friends, Chip and Valerie, were flying in from California on Friday, August 30 to meet us in Boston.  Our goal was to get there several days before their arrival so we could have work done on the Fantasea while she was in a marina.  We set out on a rainy and windy morning from Plymouth Harbor and, once we reached the entrance to the inlet, turned north, hoisted the reefed mainsail and headsail.  The wind in the 20’s was strong enough to propel us forward at 8 knots under sail.  For the next 3 hours, even as the rain subsided, the swells increased, and we struggled to keep Fantasea under control in the heavy winds.  We finally reached Scituate, entered the harbor and grabbed a mooring with a sigh of relief.  We stayed in the harbor for the next day and a half until the weather was more favorable.  In the meantime, we enjoyed the amenities in this historic town and provisioned for the next leg of our journey. 

Boston

Boston has been referred to as the Cradle of American Liberty and it has a well deserved reputation.  Here John Adams, Samuel Adams, and other early leaders in the fight for independence from England, developed the principles of self-government that would be incorporated in the Declaration of Independence. 

What joy as we entered this magnificent harbor and moored near the downtown financial district!  We had finally made it after sailing from Miami over 6 months ago.  Our goal, as we originally contemplated it, was to sail from Miami to Boston and back and visit as much of the historic East Coast.  We really had no idea if we would even make it to Boston much less consider a return to South Florida over the ensuing six months.

 

When Chip and Valerie arrived, we spent several days on the Freedom Trail, dined at Joseph Warren’s Tavern from the Revolutionary War era, and were awed by the Bunker Hill Monument.  A trip to Boston would not be complete without a tour of the USS Constitution, the oldest commissioned ship in the American Navy.  Recalling the days when ships were made of wood and men of iron, Old Ironsides still amazes us with its formidable 53 gun arsenal. 

On a rainy night we made our way over to the Old Colony Yacht Club in South Boston where we were greeted warmly by the Commodore and the club members who were not only happy to exchange burgees with us but would not permit us to pay for our dinner and drinks!  Such is the bond between yachtsmen who sojourn from afar.  

In August we sailed down the Delaware River to Cape May, New Jersey.  It is a charming town with a welcoming harbor.  We stayed there for two days and hosted a party for 6 aboard the Fantasea to include our new-found friends Jim and Laurie (fellow sailors) and Doug and Merilee (power boaters).  The rain did not dampen our spirits and, as yachtsmen are prone to do, regaled each other with stories of our odyssies. 

We left Cape May bound for New York but first we must cruise up the Jersey coast.  Unlike so much of the coast of the states that we had sailed, New Jersey did not offer good opportunities to tuck in when weather turned unfavorable.  We did sail north to Atlantic City and then to Barnegat Bay where the highlight of that anchorage was the reunion with my boyhood friend, Artie, and his wife Debbie.  The next day was another 50 miler as we rounded Sandy Hook and anchored in the Atlantic Highlands.  Though it was hazy, the outline of Manhattan loomed in the distance.  Here we stayed several days, toured the town, went to a church where we sang the same beloved songs of worship, and visited the local yacht club.

Early the next morning to time the current right through the East River, we approached the Verrazzano Narrows bridge, the 8^th longest suspension bridge in the world.  There we were in New York Harbor marveling at the skyscrapers right before us.  We sailed right past the Statue of Liberty and the Freedom Tower and then under the Brooklyn Bridge.  I had imagined what it would be like to sail past these uniquely American treasures but was still awed by their sheer majesty.  What millions of immigrants must have felt as they first caught sight of Lady Liberty and hoped for the opportunity to make a better life for their families. 

We did not tarry in Manhattan but motored up the East River past the United Nations and on into Hell Gate, that notoriously difficult water way with its swift moving currents.  Fortunately, we had consulted Eldridge’s Tides and Currents book and we knew that our yacht was moving with rather than against that 5 knot current as we clocked speeds of nearly 12 knots!  And then we were in Long Island Sound heading for our first anchorage at Port Washington in Manhasset Bay.  What a joy to sail in these waters with a good breeze and a warm day. 

After our all too brief “furlough” back home in California, we arrived back in Washington, DC after a 2 day stopover to visit Glenn and Karen at their beautiful home on the Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri.  We hitched a ride back to Fantasea which was moored in the Washington Channel off the Potomac River.  She was in good shape but, alas, the refrigeration unit was not working.  And this after we had spent the day provisioning for the next week.  We were able to secure ice to keep our perishables fresh until the next day when Bill, our local go to mechanic arrived to diagnose and address the problem. Turns out it was a fuse that needed replacement but he had to remove the stove to get to the refrigeration fuse area. 

That problem solved so we then turned our attention to the fresh water pump which would pressurize itself every 25 seconds.  That loud noise would be followed by the equally obnoxious bilge pump going off for 3 seconds.  Talk about the constant drip on the forehead torture!  What this means is that there was a leak in the fresh water system.  Dave, referred to us by the Capital Yacht Club staff, came by to identify the leak and suggested that the hot water tank was the culprit so we placed an order for a new one that would be delivered to a marina that we planned to visit 5 days hence.  In the meantime, to protect our sanity, we turned off the fresh water pump until we had to use it for washing dishes and bathing. 

It was necessary to move on, pump or no pump, so we proceeded down the Potomac River to the Chesapeake Bay.  Along the way, we passed by Mt Vernon, home of George Washington and observed the tradition of boats and ships to sound the bell in his honor.  We did not have a bell so we simply saluted.  That night we anchored in a peaceful area down river and the next day continued on toward the Chesapeake.  We turned up the St Mary’s River and anchored in the horseshoe bend at St Mary’s College.  The historic city of St Mary, by the way, was the original capital of Maryland.  

We finally reached the Chesapeake and turned north to Herrington Harbor Marina where we docked for the night.  We engaged the services of a marine services company to install the new hot water tank.  In addition, over the ensuing three days, this team installed two new faucets, replaced worn hose clamps, and resettled the speed transducer.  The leak was fixed they claimed.  But it was not!  After nearly pulling the rest of my sparse hair out, we elected to leave Herrington Harbor on Saturday rather than wait for Monday for the technicians to return.  By the way, Herrington was the most beautiful marina we’ve visited with new restrooms and showers that would rival a Ritz Carlton (almost). 

On to Annapolis where surely we would find competent technicians to solve the leak.  After all, Annapolis is the sailing capital of the entire East Coast with more yacht service companies too numerous to mention.  Of course, few would offer any encouragement other than to say they were backed up for weeks before they could get to us.  Hat in hand, we went to a very large boat yard where contractors by the dozens were stationed and called on Marc who owned a fairly sizeable firm with a dozen or so employees.  Marc surely took pity on us and agreed to stop by the boat.  He did indeed show up and, after about 45 minutes, directed me to the area where a hot water line ran under the stringers and emanated a distinct hissing sound like water escaping from a hose!  The next day, he returned with one of his staff and they established a new line to replace the old one.  The leak was fixed!  The next day I went to his office to pay the invoice and ask his advice for the on board generator which was not having adequate water flow.  Without a generator, there is no air conditioning while away from a dock.  He amazingly came down to the boat again and we worked on identifying the blockage. 

This was truly amazing and we have concluded it could only be by God’s grace that the very busy owner of a marine services company whose work backlog extended to weeks, would make such a significant amount time for us. 

That afternoon, we uberred to a marine consignment store where they took our gennaker sail and said that if it did not sell in 3 years, they had the right to dispose of it.  And there fee would be 50% of the selling price. 

We weighed anchor in lovely Back Creek off the Severn River in Annapolis, happy to be on our way back up the Chesapeake.  There is a canal called the C and D Canal that links the Chesapeake Bay with the Delaware River.  About 14 miles long the canal is where the Chesapeake Inn and Marina is located.  We anchored in a calm cove after 8 hours of sailing and dined at the classy restaurant. 

The next day we motored the rest of the way through the canal and entered the Delaware River on our way to Cape May, New Jersey.  We enjoyed a marvelous sail down the river and turned up the Cohansey River to seek anchorage as we could not cover the distance to the cape in one day.  We found the Hancock Harbor Marina where we could dock for a mere $1 per foot.  That’s about half of the going rate is on the Chesapeake and a third of other marinas as we traveled north. We were finally in New Jersey albeit at a place I had never heard of called Greenwich, pronunced “Green” not “Gren” as in that village in New York or the swanky town in Connecticut.  We met a couple who had just married in February in Key West.  They owned 150 acres of farmland and a number of race horses.  We hit it off immediately and, before the evening was over, they invited us to visit their farm the next day.  We opted to spend some time with this interesting couple rather than sail down to Cape May.  Glad we did because it was a fascinating experience to see all the fruits and vegetables that they grew.  We bid farewell hoping to connect with them on our way back down to South Jersey in October.